Regional cuisine is born out of the limitation of supplies, out of the absence rather than the abundance of products.

 

The Cuisine of Imagination encompasses the State of Mexico, Mexico City and Morelos

Four days after arriving in Mexico City, Hernan Cortes and a group of his captains decided to visit the city. The first thing they visited was the market on Tlatelolco Square. The great captain and his men were astonished. Cortes wrote to his king: “The square is twice as big as the City of Salamanca. There are over 60,000 people buying and selling all kinds of merchandise that can be found on these lands.”

Beyond culinary fashion, the constant throughout the years has been the extraordinary diversity of ingredients available. This fact has had a strange consequence: preventing the formation of a cuisine that is specifically characteristic of the country´s largest city. Regional cuisine is born out of the limitation of supplies, out of the absence rather than the abundance of products.

In the same way as Emperor Montezuma’s tables were provided with fresh fish from the Gulf of Mexico, pheasant from the Yucatan and fruit from Oaxaca, in Mexico City one can eat any kind of food from any region of the country. Also in Mexico City you will find Spanish, French, Arabian, Chinese or Greek cuisine, to name just a few.

Baroque Cuisine from the States of Veracruz, Puebla, Tlaxcala, Hidalgo, Guerrero and Oaxaca.

The history and geography of Mexico that is relevant to these states cannot be condensed in a few lines. In this region lies the country’s largest mountain, the Citlaltepetl, or Peak of Orizaba, virgin beaches, rich oil fields, the largest Baroque churches and colonial convents and the most modern tourist services along with some of the most reluctant indigenous tribes. This complexity can be explained, however, with the existence of Veracruz and Acapulco. Veracruz, which is the first place visited by Hernan Cortes, and Acapulco which was the place of contact with the Orient. Through these ports the New World related to the rest of the world.

Mexican cuisine was born here, undoubtedly mestiza (half-bred) in its origin and Baroque because of its complexity and the elegance of the different tastes that it comprises.

The Cuisine of Spices and Aromas
Tabasco, Chiapas, Campeche, Yucatan and Quintana Roo

These states occupy ancient Maya lands. The Indians still speak the ancient Maya language and live by the old customs of their forefathers. They use modern agricultural technology but still produce corn, beans, chili peppers and pumpkins as they did one thousand years ago. The herbs that season their modest food are the same that were used in ancient times.

The main ingredient brought by the Spanish conquerors, pork and its by-products, has been adopted and is immensely popular in a wide variety of dishes.

The refined gastronomy of the upper classes has remained intact along the centuries. To the delicate Mayan cuisine (where fat-free and flour-less sauces are an evident prelude to Nouvelle Cuisine) were added European and Middle Eastern delicacies to create a new Gastronomic dimension.

Today the cuisine of the South East of Mexico -and particularly that of Yucatan- is distinguished by its originality and wisdom.

From the State of Mexico comes this succulent cold soup:

Cold Avocado Soup

Serves 6-8
1 lime
2 large avocados
3 cups chicken broth, fat removed (can be substituted by canned beef broth)
2 cups plain yogurt
salt and pepper to taste
Remove one tablespoon from the zest of the lime. Squeeze the juice.
Mash the avocados with the lime juice and the zest. Add the yogurt, the broth, salt and pepper.
Strain it and cool. It can be blended in a blender.
Garnish with crab, shrimp or lobster or with finely minced cilantro, onion or red peppers.
For a very nice presentation you can serve it inside avocados.
Enjoy your soup as it brings back warm memories of Mexico

-Originally published in ADIP March 2001