Cheese sellers, La Union,
Overstressed? Is the IRS looking for you? Need to chill? Then La Union is for you. Located 90 minutes north/northeast of Zihuatanejo by bus, this sleepy silent town of 6,000 souls is the county seat of the Municipio de La Union de Isidoro Montes de Oca. The county is the union of 140 villages. The economy rests upon agriculture, large cattle ranches and farming. From the mountains: cedar, mahogany, oak and pine trees are harvested into timber. Hydroelectric power from the river Balsas (one of the major rivers of Mexico that forms the boundary between the states of Michoacan and Guerrero) provides electric power to both states. The fauna is represented by white-tailed deer, wild cats, boars and pigs, bears, jaguars and mountain lions, possums, iguanas, armadillos, rattlesnakes and along the coast, crocodiles, alligators and marine turtles. Some of these trees and animals are presently considered as being “en peligro de extincion” (in danger of extinction).
As in all Mexican towns, the zócalo – renovated in 1997- is the center of business activities, with traditional small stores, City Hall, the police station, the post office and the public library on its four sides. Telephone and fax services are available, but the worldwide internet has yet to appear. Likewise, there is no bank, neon signs, cinemas, films to rent, laundry facilities and like Petatlán, not a single postcard to be found. However, the town boasts of two water purification plants and we counted no less than 5 pool halls. There isn’t much to do in La Union – it’s warm and very quiet. The women wear long dresses and carry umbrellas and few men venture out without their straw sombreros.
La Union was the site of one of the main jails in the state of Guerrero during the Mexican revolution, housing both Federales and revolutionaries – depending upon which faction controlled the area. Famed radical priest-rebel leader Jose Maria Morelos came through La Union in 1813, recruiting volunteers; and Francisco Madero, slain martyr and first president of the republic after the revolution was also an honored guest here.
La Union holds its annual county fair in February where venders travel from Michoacan and carneys from as far away as Guanajuato set up their bumper cars and carousels. All night, the cockfight arena is jammed with eager gamblers. If you missed the annual fair, every Tuesday La Union hosts a large market.
Whether you want to spend one night or one month in La Union, we found two inexpensive “hotels” (Casas de Huespedes) there, each asking 40 pesos per day. The bus ride will cost you 30 pesos round trip, inquire at the main bus station, Central de Autobuses. On the way, where the road to La Union leaves the highway to Lazaro Cardenas, the Mexican army maintains an inspection post for all vehicles. A soldier will come aboard the bus and may ask you to open your backpack. Don’t be alarmed, he is only looking for drugs or guns and if you are not traveling with either, you should have no problems.
La Union is a sleepy little town with a large history, and offers a great chance to get off the beaten track and see a quieter version of Mexico.
-March 2000
